My Photo

Daring Bakers

  • Recipe Blogs - Blog Catalog Blog Directory

Restaurant reviews

November 01, 2007

Table 34

O.K., I’ll admit it. In order to make my job a bit easier and to decrease my chances of encountering writer’s block, I have selected my favorite Las Vegas restaurant as my first one to review.  I need to clarify this as I don’t want anyone to question my abilities as a critic if it seems like the positives greatly outweigh the negatives in this particular case (many positives, one small negative).  I also feel strongly about getting the good word out and doing my part to drive additional business to this fantastic establishment, where my husband and I frequent 3-4 times each month (hey, it’s that good), and I know that they have a growing list of “regulars” who do the same.

Table 34 would definitely be classified as a “hidden gem” in Las Vegas.  While many of the highly-rated restaurants in town have marketing help from their celebrity chef, or a huge billboard supported by the particular casino where they are located, Table 34 does not.  In fact, let’s get their weakness out of the way right now: Because of their off-strip location in an office park behind the airport, they are a bit hard to find, especially for local residents’ standards.   If it doesn’t have a flashing neon 20-foot sign or it isn’t on the Strip, it is “out of the way”. Now, some people might consider this a plus—those people who want their neighborhood bistro all to themselves.  I, on the other hand, want them to do well and to be around for the long haul, so sorry folks, I’m spreading the word.

Named for the VIP round table in the back, Table 34 is run by Wolfgang Puck protégés Executive Chef Wes Kendrick and his sister, Laurie, who manages the front of the house.  The casual, yet elegantly decorated space is warm and inviting, as is the hospitality (by your second or third visit, Laurie will know your name).  There is truly something to be said for the rare “mom and pop” operation, of this quality, in a town overrun with chains and franchises, and if you pay attention, you’ll notice the differences throughout your meal.  Chef Kendrick walks around the dining room, greeting customers and gathering feedback.  Laurie will clear your table to get you seated faster if the busboy is tied up.  Even the wait staff seems vested in the restaurant’s success.  Seldom will you find such a personable, capable and well-timed crew.  You never feel rushed or as if you are being upsold—two things that will almost guarantee that I won’t return somewhere.

The meal always starts with a basket of assorted breads and really good European butter (I consider myself quite the butter connoisseur and it really helps to have great butter for your bread).   There are usually three types to choose from, which of course means that we need to try them all—we love our bread basket.  The breads are the only items not made in-house, a smart decision from an operational standpoint considering the labor and expertise involved in making really good bread.  The bread is supplied by Bon Breads, in my opinion the best wholesale bread bakery in town.  You of course are also given your choice of bottled or still water.  I can’t recall when this became de rigueur in every restaurant, but being someone who refuses to pay $10 for water, we always opt for good old tap.  Trust me, it’s fine.  Save your money for upgrading your wine.

Table 34 has a well-rounded and not-too-lengthy wine list.  Since wine preference is such a personal thing, I won’t delve into the selection too deeply other than to say that there is something for every price range and several good options for wines by the glass.  If you do like chardonnays; however, might I suggest the Frank Family Vineyards if you need a recommendation?   We first tried it at Table 34 and it is now one of our favorites.

As far as menu items go, Chef Kendrick’s cuisine is imaginative, seasonal, and very flavorful.  The combinations of flavors in dishes such as the Grilled Rack of Pork with Chipotle Potatoes and Hard Cider Glaze makes you look forward to ordering it again the next time, which of course makes it difficult to try new things.  I think there might have been one time in the dozens of times that we have eaten there that my husband wasn’t crazy about what he ordered; every other time has been great.  It is nice to have a place where you can bring guests and have the security of knowing that they are most-likely going to have a good experience.  I have listed below a few of my favorite items, but there is also a link to Table 34’s website at the end of this post.    The only item that I wouldn’t necessarily recommend is the Arugula with Goat Cheese, Apples, Candied Walnuts & Citrus Dressing, not because it isn’t good, but because there are too many better, more innovative, and more flavorful choices.   As far as desserts go, I’m sorry that I cannot comment on the selection.  We seldom make it to dessert.  Did I mention that the portions are huge and that I usually end up bringing home a doggie bag?  If you go to Table 34 and do get dessert, please let me know your thoughts!

In terms of pricing, you will be paying significantly less for your food and wine at Table 34, thanks to the off-strip location (see pricing below).  You can also find discount certificates on www.restaurant.com or every few months in the coupon books send out in the mail (Your Guide Inside).

Reservations are recommended, especially on weekends!

Table 34 Recommended Menu Items:

Appetizers:

*        House Smoked Salmon on Potato Galette with Parsley-Shallot Cream

*        Heirloom Tomato Salad with Fresh Mozzarella, Basil, & Balsamic Reduction

*        Prosciutto-Wrapped Roasted Figs (in season)

*        Any of the homemade soups (selection changes daily)

Entrees:

*        Seared Alaskan Halibut with Mixed Greens, Chill-Mint Vinaigrette & Fresh        Melon (Available April-October)

*        Grilled Rack of Pork with Chipotle Potatoes, Asparagus, & Hard Cider Glaze

*        All Beef Meatloaf with Mashed Potatoes and Onion Gravy

Price (per person for appetizer and entree, excluding beverages): $28-$40

Hours of Operation:

Lunch: Monday-Friday 11 a.m.-3p.m.

Dinner: Tuesday-Saturday 5 p.m.-close

Location: 600 East Warm Springs (West of the 215 Warm Springs exit)

Phone: 702.263.0034