Peanut Butter and Julie

Vine-Ripened Tomato Chutney

"A world without tomatoes is like a string quartet without a violin."   --Laurie Colwin, Home Cooking

Ms. Colwin has a point there.  After reading this quote, I started to think about all of the different cuisines, food products, and recipes that rely on this versatile vegetable, which is technically a fruit.  Tomatoes are simmered and stewed in Rome, Italy, but battered and deep fried in Rome, Georgia.  They'll be roasted in a Paris, France ratatouille, but finely chopped in a Paris, Texas pico de gallo.  Tomato paste helps to thicken our sauces, and summer just wouldn't be the same without big red bottles of tomato ketchup or barbecue sauce.  Breakfast omelets, lunch BLTs, dinner casseroles--all of our meals are tastier when these vine-ripened dynamos are involved.  Heck, I've even heard of people mixing tomato puree into their chocolate cake batter (Disclaimer: I have not tried this, so I cannot endorse this method.)

This is a particularly great time of year for tomatoes, yes, even in the produce-challenged Las Vegas grocery stores.  California must have had a bumper crop this year, because our bins were overflowing with crimson Roma, cherry, hothouse, vine-ripened, and heirloom varietals, all reasonably priced, might I add.  With the inflated price of groceries nowadays, when I do find produce that is both beautiful and that won't break the bank, I'll buy it and then figure out what to do with it later.  In this case, I decided to make a big batch of tomato chutney, which would last us most of the summer, and that we could use as a different condiment alternative during our outdoor cooking endeavors. 

With the addition of dried cranberries, cinnamon, and brown sugar, this chutney would also probably work really well in the fall, if you are lucky enough to have great tomatoes year-round.  The cumin, ginger, and mustard seed add a little bit of Middle Eastern flavor, and the cayenne adds some heat.  The flavors will only improve over time, as they blend, so make a big batch to keep available for your next burger night!  Here are some tips for this versatile summer spread:

• If you don't have vine-ripened tomatoes, you can use romas, hothouse, or even grape, as long as they are ripe and finely chopped.
• The dried cranberries can be replaced with dark or golden raisins, chopped dried figs, or even dried cherries.
• The chutney can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 months, tightly covered.
• This chutney is great spooned over burgers or grilled chicken, pork, or fish.  It would also be good mixed with a little sour cream to make a dip for raw vegetables.

Vine-Ripened Tomato Chutney

Makes about 4 cups

Ingredients:

3 cups finely chopped vine-ripened tomatoes

1 cup finely chopped red bell pepper

1 cup finely chopped red onion

1/2 cup dried cranberries

1/2 cup cider vinegar

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup packed brown sugar

2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

1/8 teaspoon cayenne

Combine all of the ingredients in a large saucepan and bring the mixture to a boil.  Reduce the heat and simmer the mixture for about 45 minutes or until thick, stirring frequently.  Cool the chutney and then pour it into airtight containers.

Bread and Butter Pickles

Several years ago, I developed a really good recipe for a chunky spiced applesauce.  It has just the right blend of sweet and tart apples, spices, and a touch of fresh lemon juice. Because it is not too sweet, it goes over well with both adults and children, and it is great to use as a lighter substitute for oil in baking. 

When I was growing up, my mom always made delicious homemade applesauce in the Fall, when the local orchard was overflowing with bushels of McIntosh, Golden Delicious, and Gala varietals.  After preparing a large batch, we would place it in our big downstairs freezer to enjoy year-round.  Since I don't have the same amount of freezer space, I decided to take the opportunity to learn how to do home-canning, so that I could not only store the applesauce in my pantry, but give it away as gifts (who doesn't love the gift of homemade food??).  I was surprised to find that, with the correct tools and a few instructions, canning is extremely easy.  I learned everything that I need to know from a book called The Big Book of Preserving the Harvest, and I have been a canning machine ever since, making everything from strawberry-rhubarb jam to southern chow-chow.  I think part of the attraction is that it makes me feel like I am living off the land on a farm as opposed to a subdivision in the desert located ten minutes from the Las Vegas strip....

After seeing a large display of Kirby cucumbers at Trader Joe's the other day, I decided that it was time to make my own bread and butter pickles.  I was fortunate to marry someone who agrees that dill pickles run too sour, and sweet gherkins are, well, too sweet, so we usually go through Costco's economy-sized bread and butter pickle jar a few time per year.  By learning to make my own, and placing them in smaller containers, we wouldn't feel the pressure to eat pickles with everything, in order to go through a multi-gallon container before they go bad.  These pickles are great on burgers or sandwiches, mixed into salads, and on their own, so make up a batch for your summertime meals.  You can even prepare them without canning (see below)--just eat them quickly!  Here are some tips for these sweet and sour sandwich toppers:

• Although it seems like a large amount of salt, the salt brine helps the cucumbers to remain crunchy.  Most of the salt is discarded.
• Kirby cucumbers are traditionally used for pickling or slicing.  They are small with bumpy yellow or green skin.  I found them at Trader Joe's, but they were labeled as "Persian Cucumbers."  If you cannot find them, try substituting English cucumbers.
• For uniform sized slices, use a mandoline set at the 1/8-inch thickness level.  If you don't have a mandoline, just slice the cucumbers as evenly as you can.
• If you are not canning the pickles for dry storage, or if you are not giving some away, you might want to cut this recipe in half, as it makes a large amount.
• If you like a spicier pickle, then add 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper to the mixture, along with the mustard seeds, turmeric, and celery salt.

Bread and Butter Pickles

Makes about 6 pints

Ingredients:

1 cup kosher salt

1 1/2 gallons water

5 1/2 pound Kirby cucumbers, sliced crosswise about 1/8-inch thick

5 cups cider vinegar

5 cups sugar

1 1/2 pounds yellow onions, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons yellow mustard seeds

1 tablespoon celery seeds

1 tablespoon turmeric

1 tablespoon coarsely cracked black pepper

In a large pot, dissolve the salt in the water.  Add the cucumbers, cover, and soak overnight in the refrigerator.

In a large pot, combine the vinegar and sugar and cook until the sugar dissolves.  Stir in the remaining ingredients.  Drain the cucumbers and add them to the pot.  Stir gently and bring to a boil.  Cover and simmer for 5 minutes and then turn off the heat.

If you are canning the pickles, ladle the hot cucumbers and their liquid into 6 hot 1-pint canning jars, leaving about 1/2-inch of space at the top.  Close the lids and rings.  Process by boiling the jars for 10 minutes.  Cool the pickles to room temperature and store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.  Refrigerate after opening.

If you are not canning the pickles, let the cucumbers cool for a few hours in the covered pot.  Transfer to containers, cover tightly, and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.

Sioux City Sarsaparilla Barbecue Sauce

So I made a little error last night when preparing the recipe for today's post.  I forgot to take a picture of the completed product, in all of its glistening, cabernet-colored, caramelized glory, coating a juicy chicken breast.  Somewhere between taking the chicken off the grill and fending off my dogs, who were begging for the last few succulent pieces, the photo opportunity slipped my mind.  On the positive side, I suppose this is a true testament for how delicious this smoky sauce really is--I couldn't wait to eat it.  On the downside, the only photo that I have for you today is of my basting brush waiting patiently in the tub for the chicken to be ready to coat (it still looks good though).

I have seen recipes for barbecue sauces that contain every ingredient imaginable: whiskey, espresso, Coca-Cola, rum, red wine, and even chocolate.  Once you have the basic tomato-base of the sauce, it is fun to play around with the different flavors and levels of spice--just add the ingredients gradually. A sauce with two cups of whiskey might set the entire backyard on fire, which might really irritate the neighbors, especially since you were having a barbecue and didn't invite them.  Anyhow, this particular sauce was inspired by a bottle of liquid smoke from the pantry and a bottle Sioux City Sarsaparilla that I had in my refrigerator for quite some time.  I didn't want to throw it out, but I am not much of a sarsaparilla drinker either, so I was just waiting for a chance to use it.

Sioux City Sarsaparilla is a soft drink comparable to root beer.  The flavor is a bit creamier and also contains a hint of vanilla.  It is definitely a niche item with a vintage soda look, and it is not easy to find (other than on-line), but if you happen to come across it, this "Granddaddy of all root beers" is definitely worth a try.  Here are a few extra comments about this savory sarsaparilla sauce:

• As I said above, Sioux City Sarsaparilla can be a bit tough to find, but you can use another brand of sarsaparilla soda, root beer, or even Dr. Pepper as a substitute. 
• Don't omit the liquid smoke from this recipe, it really gives it a unique flavor and heavenly aroma while it is cooking on the stove.  You will recognize it as soon as you taste and smell it.  It is made by concentrating liquid smoke and extracting it with water (similar to a vanilla extract).  It doesn't cost very much, and a little bit goes a long way, so I would definitely recommend purchasing a bottle for the barbecue season.
• When grilling chicken, pork, or whatever you plan to coat with this sauce, do not baste with the sauce until the last few minutes of grilling.  The sugar content will cause over-caramelization and charring if the sauce is added too early.

Sioux City Sarsaparilla Barbecue Sauce

Makes about 1 1/2 cups

1 cup Sioux City Sarsaparilla

1 cup ketchup

1/4 cup lemon juice

1/3 cup orange juice

3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

2 tablespoons packed brown sugar

1 tablespoon honey, molasses, or agave nectar

1 teaspoon liquid smoke

1/2 teaspoon orange zest

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1/2 teaspoon onion powder

Salt and pepper to taste

Combine all of the ingredients in a medium saucepan.  Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally.  Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until reduced to about 1 1/2 cups, 20-25 minutes.  Season the sauce to taste with salt and pepper.  Cool slightly.

Better Butters

If I had ever tried to jump on the low-carb or Atkins diet bandwagon when they were popular, I surely would have failed miserably.  In fact, I think that I actually did try it, and then after about 6 hours I realized that the diet restrictions just weren't worth the sacrifice.   I will never be the girl who refuses the bread basket or pushes it to the other end of the table.  Really good bread is one of my favorite indulgences, especially when it is spread with some delicious creamy butter.  Even just a thin layer of high-quality butter can take a fresh and warm artisan roll over the top.

One trend that I have seen occurring in some of the nicer restaurants that I have eaten at recently is the presentation of compound butters on the table along with the bread basket.  A compound butter is a butter that has been flavored by blending softened butter together with flavored ingredients.  These can be savory or sweet, and restaurants will often select the ingredients to specifically complement the breads that they are serving, such as serving a sun-dried tomato butter alongside a rosemary bread. 

The use of compound butters is not restricted to bread alone.  They are ideal for entertaining and are a simple way to add a little "Martha" to dishes like pasta, grilled fish or steaks, by adding a subtle flavorful touch.  Cut a thin slice from the chilled butter and dab it onto the dish just prior to serving to add the "wow" factor. Sweet compound butters can be spread on french toast, biscuits, muffins, waffles, and other baked goods.  They do a good job of adding sweetness without adding too much of the sweet substance.   You won't need to pile on a large amount of jam or honey when it's already mixed in with the butter.  They really help to take dishes to the next level and make them better with very little added effort.  Here are some tips for preparing the compound butters:

• The butters will stay fresh in the refrigerator for about three weeks.  Keep them either wrapped or tightly covered.
• There are many different variations of ingredients that can be used as mix-ins for the butter.  Try some of the following:  chopped sun-dried tomatoes and fresh basil, maple syrup and cinnamon, lemon zest and thyme, fresh rosemary and garlic, herbes de Provence, finely chopped prosciutto and sage, or finely chopped black olives. 
• You can also use this technique to flavor soft cheeses, such as goat cheeses or cream cheese.  For presentation, roll the outside of the cheese in the mix-in ingredients (i.e.  roll the goat cheese in finely chopped herbs to give it an herb crust.)

Better Butters

Makes three 1/2 cup portions

Ingredients:

3 sticks butter, softened

1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon grated orange zest

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

2 teaspoons honey

Place one stick of the softened butter in a bowl and, using a rubber spatula or a spoon, stir in the chopped chives and minced garlic until well combined.  Transfer the butter onto a sheet of waxed paper.  Fold one of the edges over the butter and roll into a log, lengthwise.  Twist the ends of the waxed paper in opposite directions to seal.  Clean the bowl.

Repeat the procedure two times, once using the tablespoon of grated orange zest and once using the ground cinnamon and honey.  Chill the logs of butter for at least one hour before cutting.