Peanut Butter and Julie

Tortas Della Nonna

Italian cuisine isn't really known for its desserts.  This is probably due to that fact that, after they have finished eating a meal laden with pasta, cheeses, bread, and wine, most people are either to stuffed or too sleepy (or both) to even think about taking on another course.  Typically, your run-of -the-mill Italian eatery will feature the old standbys on its menu: tiramisu, gelato, cannoli, and flour-less chocolate cake, which isn't Italian, but it apparently is written in some secret restaurant code  that all dessert menus must feature this ubiquitous confection. 

When Eric went to Europe with a group of his classmates, after graduating from business school, they spent most of their time in Italy.  I was one year behind him and up to my ears in corporate catch phrases, doing my summer internship in New York.  Although I did not get to experience the beautiful Tuscan countryside and delicious fresh foods firsthand, Eric did come home with a backpack full of gifts, perfect for a foodie like me.  Two of these gifts were very authentic looking Italian cookbooks, which featured traditional and mostly unfamiliar Tuscan and Florentine recipes (in other words, no Spaghetti and Meatballs to be found). 

Both of these cookbooks contained recipes for Torta Della Nonna, or "Grandmother's cake", which is commonly seen on the shelves of pastry shops throughout Italy.  There are thousands of variations of this cake, as each grandmother has her own special secret recipe, but they are usually a custard filled tart and they traditionally feature pine nuts.  If you're too full from your big Italian meal, this recipe would be equally delicious with afternoon coffee, or rather, espresso.  Here are a few extra tips for these individual Italian pastries:

• If you don't have vanilla beans on hand, and if you don't want to make the rather steep investment, you can substitute 2 teaspoons of vanilla extract or 1 teaspoon of vanilla bean paste (available at Trader Joe's for a much more reasonable price.)
• Instead of dark rum, try substituting coconut rum, such as Malibu.  You can also stir some lightly toasted coconut into the custard after it has cooled.
• If you don't have mini tart pans, or if you would rather make one large dessert, then prepare the recipe using a 9 or 10-inch tart pan with a removable bottom.  You may need to adjust the baking time accordingly.
• The crust dough may be chilled for up to 2 days, and the raisin mixture and custard may be prepared up to one day in advance.  The tortas can be prepared one day in advance as well.
• Although tortas della nonna are traditionally prepared using pine nuts, you may substitute a different nut, such as slivered blanched almonds, instead.

Tortas Della Nonna

Makes 8 individual tarts

Ingredients:

For crust

2 1/4 cups confectioner's sugar

2 1/4 cups (4 1/2 sticks) butter, room temperature

2 large eggs

5 3/4 cups flour

1 teaspoon salt

For filling

2/3 cup raisins

1/4 cup dark rum

2 cups whole milk

4 large egg yolks

5 tablespoons cornstarch

1/2 cup sugar

1 vanilla bean, split

1/3 cup pine nuts

1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water (glaze for crust)

Prepare the crust dough:  In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the confectioner's sugar and butter until blended.  Add the eggs, 1 at a time, and beat well after each addition.  Add the flour and salt and beat until blended.  Divide the dough into 4 pieces and wrap each piece in plastic wrap.  Flatten the pieces into disks and chill for 1 hour.

Prepare the filling:  Combine the raisins and the rum in a small saucepan and simmer for 3 minutes.  Remove from the heat, cover, and let stand for 3 hours or overnight.

Whisk 1/2 cup of the milk, egg yolks, and cornstarch in a medium bowl.  In a large saucepan, mix the sugar and 1 1/2 cups of the milk.  Scrape in the seeds from the vanilla bean and then add the bean.  Bring the milk and sugar mixture to a boil and then gradually whisk it into the yolk mixture.  Return the mixture to the pot and boil until thickened, whisking constantly, about 2 minutes.  Transfer to a bowl, press plastic wrap onto the surface, and chill until cold, about 4 hours.

"Preheat the oven to 350F degrees.  Working with 1 dough disk at a time, roll out onto a floured surface to 1/8-inch thickness.  Cut the dough into 5 1/2-inch diameter rounds, gathering scraps and re-rolling, for a total of 16 rounds.  Transfer 8 of the rounds to 4 1/2-inch diameter tartlet pans with removable bottoms.

Stir the raisin mixture and pine nuts into the cold custard.  Divide the filling among the 8 tartlet pans.  Top with the remaining 8 dough rounds.  Trim the edges to a 1/4-inch overhang and press together the edges to seal.  Brush the dough with the egg glaze.

Bake tortas until golden brown, about 45 minutes.  Cool, sprinkle with confectioner's sugar, and serve.

Tequila-Jalapeno Glazed Chicken

Note to self:  Try not to barbecue when the wind speed is over 30 mph.  I learned that one the hard way, after I almost set my beloved wall of rosemary bushes on fire last night (on the upside, it would have smelled great).  Deep down I knew that I should abort my outdoor grilling plans and bring the cooking indoors, but this is one recipe that I knew just wouldn't taste the same unless it developed that nice crispy skin that only my little Weber grill could produce. 

So there I stood, trying to shield the wind until the coals were ready, occasionally dousing them with a squirt of lighter fluid to keep the fires going, endangering the existence of my eyelashes with each squirt.  To make matters worse, my new dog, who has developed a talent for jumping up on the door and hitting the lock latch whenever I am outside (couldn't he just learn to fetch the paper?), decided to demonstrate this skill for me again last night.  Fortunately, after last week's experience of being locked out of the house in my pajamas for 1 1/2 hours until the locksmith came, I had kept a spare key hidden outdoors.  This just wasn't the ideal time to go digging for it.

Fortunately, all of this trouble was well worth it in the end.  This chicken turned out to be juicy and delicious, a great reward after a challenging cooking process.  The sweet and slightly spicy glaze caramelized nicely and gave the chicken a nice crisp, lightly charred skin.  I grilled some portobello mushrooms alongside the chicken, basting them with some of the spare glaze, and they absorbed the flavor quite well.  Here are a few extra tips for this glazed grilled chicken:

• You may use boneless, skinless chicken breasts for this recipe; however, the chicken will be moister if you use bone-in skin-on pieces.
• This recipe would also taste great using pork chops or a firm fish like swordfish steaks or mahi-mahi.
• For some extra flavor, squeeze a lime over the chicken breasts during the final stages of grilling.
• Serve the chicken with a variety of grilled vegetables, such as portobello mushrooms, peppers, zucchini, and red onion.
• Pineapple juice may be substituted for orange juice.

Tequila-Jalapeno Glazed Chicken

Serves 4

Ingredients:

1 1/2 tablespoons ground coriander

2 teaspoons coarse salt

1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper

4 bone-in skin-on chicken breasts

2/3 cup orange juice

1/2 cup tequila

1/4 cup brown sugar

1/4 cup honey

2 jalapenos with seeds, minced

2 shallots, minced

Mix the coriander, salt, and red pepper.  Sprinkle the mixture all over the chicken.  Arrange the chicken, skin side up, on a baking sheet.  Cover and chill the chicken for at least 6 hours or overnight.

Combine the orange juice, tequila, brown sugar, honey, jalapenos, and shallots in a medium saucepan.  Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring until the sugar dissolves.  Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the mixture thickens slightly, about 10 minutes.  Cool the glaze and set aside 1/4 cup for serving.

Spray a grill with nonstick cooking spray.  Prepare a barbecue over medium heat.  Arrange the chicken, skin side up, on the grill.  Grill for 15 minutes, turning occasionally.  Brush the chicken with the remaining glaze from the saucepan.  Turn the chicken over and brush with the glaze.  Grill until the juices run clear when pierced with a fork or until an instant read thermometer reads 170F degrees when inserted into the chicken, about 10 minutes longer.  Transfer to a platter and spoon the reserved glaze over. 

Blueberry Cornmeal Pancakes with Pecan Honey-Butter

All of the finalists in the National Cornbread Cook-off were sent home with a really nice gift basket, chock-full of logo-wear and products from Martha White Cornmeal and Lodge Cast-Iron Skillets.  This was much nicer than the disappointing pat on the back and "Thanks for trying .  Be sure to enter again next year!" send off that you get with some competitions.  In fact, thanks to this adventure, over the past four months I have gone from owning zero cast-iron pieces of cookware to owning five, one of which produces corn muffins in the shape of little cacti (eat your heart out Martha).

One of the things included along with the requisite t-shirt, apron, mug, and key-chain, was a large bag of Martha White cornmeal.  Although I thought that I would go several weeks without the desire to eat anything corn-related, I decided to make pancakes this morning, and adding a little bit of cornmeal to the batter always makes then nice and crisp on the outside and fluffy on the inside.  It also provides a slight crunch and nutty taste.  I even prepared them in my skillet before I retired it to the cabinets for a well deserved vacation.

The butter served with the pancakes is a compound butter, or softened butter that has been mixed with flavorings like spices, nuts, or herbs.  I love adding a little orange zest, sun-dried tomatoes, or maple syrup to butters and then spreading it over warm rolls, vegetables, or grilled steak.  The honey-pecan and cinnamon flavors in this butter add a nice touch to these already delicious pancakes.  Here are some tips for these blueberry and pecan packed pancakes:

• If using frozen blueberries, in order to prevent turning the batter blue, try dropping the blueberries onto the pancakes after you pour the batter onto the griddle.  Alternatively, be extra careful when folding the blueberries into the batter.
• For an extra rich flavor, use a high-quality European style butter (such as Plugra) for the Pecan Honey Butter.
• To make this recipe lower in fat and calories, use a low-fat sour cream and low-fat (1% or 2% milk).  Substitute 2 egg whites and 1 whole egg for the 2 whole eggs.
• Add the zest of one lemon to the batter for some bright citrus flavor.

Blueberry Cornmeal Pancakes with Pecan Honey-Butter

Serves 4-6

Ingredients:

1/2 cup butter, room temperature

2 tablespoons honey

1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/3 cup finely chopped toasted pecans

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons flour

1/3 cup yellow cornmeal

2 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 large eggs

3/4 cup sour cream

3/4 cup whole milk

1/4 cup canola or safflower oil

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 1/2 cups fresh or frozen blueberries

Pure maple syrup

With an electric mixer, beat the 1/2 cup butter, honey, and cinnamon in a small bowl until fluffy.  Stir in the pecans and season with salt.

Sift the flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt into a large bowl.  In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, sour cream, milk, oil, and vanilla.  Gradually add the liquid mixture to the dry ingredients until blended.  Gently fold in the blueberries.

Heat a griddle or large skillet over medium heat.  Brush the griddle with melted butter.  Pour the batter by 1/3 cupfuls onto the griddle.  Cook until the bottoms brown, 3-4 minutes, and then flip the pancakes and cook until the second side browns, about 2 minutes longer.

Serve the pancakes topped with the pecan honey butter and warm maple syrup. 

Spicy Black Bean, Chicken, and Chorizo Soup

I just returned from my National Cornbread Cook-off experience late last night.  Despite the fact that I did not bring home the $$$ or that beautiful Five-Star Range, which would have looked so lovely in my kitchen, I had an absolutely fantastic time and would not hesitate to return if I am ever fortunate enough to be invited for a second attempt.  The people of South Pittsburg, Tennessee could not have been more hospitable.  Some even seemed surprised that I would travel all those miles just to whip up my Savory Prosciutto Fontina Cornbread Pudding underneath a 200 square foot tent, surrounded mostly by folks who hadn't traveled more than a few hours by car to pay their $3 admission fee to experience all things cornbread.  Personally, I found the entire experience to be more than worth the time it took to travel across a few time zones and drive into an area of the country that I wouldn't have had a reason to visit otherwise.  The small-town pride, friendliness, and good manners expressed by all was so refreshing, especially coming from a place where you don't always feel like you can say "hello" to just anyone who you pass on the street, unless you know them.  The bluegrass band, the street dance, and the cornbread eating contest were all fun to experience---although I can do without ever watching another buttermilk chugging contest for as long as I live--YUCK! 

In the end, a nice lady from Florida won the contest with her Ancho Shrimp on Smoked Gouda Corncakes, and my new friend Teri won 2nd (yea!) with her Zesty Italian Sausage Skillet with Sundried Tomato Cornbread Crust.  3rd went to Uncle Earl from Tennessee for his Sausage Pepper Cheese Quiche, and he brought along about 50 of his closest friends to root him on, all wearing matching t-shirts.  Yes, clearly this was not your mother's cornbread (although mom, you do make really great cornbread).

Amazingly, during the festival, I did not have one bite of cornbread.  There were many varieties of other foods for sale--the big item seemed to be any kind of meat on a stick, and lots of it.  It was all pretty heavy, but delicious, typical fair food, such as funnel cakes, gyros, and ice cream.  Needless to say, by the time I arrived home last night, I was relieved to find some of the black bean and chicken soup that I had made for Eric before I left.  I wanted something satisfying and healthy that I didn't need to fuss over too much, and this soup fit the bill.  And no, I didn't dunk a piece of cornbread in it while I ate.  Here are a few extra tips for this spicy savory soup:

• To make this recipe lower in fat and calories, substitute spicy turkey sausage for the chorizo sausage.  It will still deliver on the flavor and texture.
• This soup will keep well for 3-4 days, tightly covered, in the refrigerator.  The flavors will even improve over time. 
• For garnish, try sprinkling the hot soup with a little bit of shredded sharp cheddar or Monterey Jack cheese, a dollop of sour cream, some minced fresh chives, and/or some crushed tortilla chips.
• Improvise by using different types of beans in this soup.  Garbanzo, kidney, and pinto would all work well.
• Instead of the jalapeno pepper, try substituting 1 chipotle chili in adobo, finely chopped, for a little extra spice and a smoky flavor.

Spicy Black Bean, Chicken, and Chorizo Soup

Serves 6

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 pound chorizo sausage, casings removed

2 cups chopped, peeled carrots

1 1/2 cups chopped onion

1 1/2 cups chopped celery

1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and minced

2 bay leaves

6 cloves garlic, minced

2 teaspoons dried thyme

5-6 cups chicken broth

3 (15-ounce) cans black beans, drained

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 3/4 inch cubes

Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat.  Add the chorizo, carrots, onion, celery, jalapeno, and bay leaves.  Saute until the sausage is cooked through, breaking up the sausage with a spatula, about 10 minutes.  Add the garlic and thyme and saute for 2 minutes.  Add 5 cups of broth, bring the mixture to a boil, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer for 20 minutes.

Add the beans and the chicken to the soup and simmer until the chicken is cooked through, about 10 minutes, adding more broth if desired.  Discard the bay leaves and season the soup with salt and pepper.  Serve.