Peanut Butter and Julie

Cherry-Lemon Cornmeal Scones

I've had all things corn on the brain lately: cornmeal, corn on the cob, caramel corn--I even went out and bought some Sugar Corn Pops, which I don't think I've had since I was about eight.  Oh wait, now they're called Kellogg's Corn Pops, in an effort to hide the fact that they will cause most five-year-olds to bounce off the walls 15 minutes after they eat a bowl.  This recent corn overload is likely a due to the upcoming National Cornbread Cook-Off , to be held next weekend in South Pittsburg, Tennessee, and in which I am competing.  It's as if I believe that, by surrounding myself with as much corn product as possible (come to think of it, I have been wearing lots of yellow lately.....), the corn gods will see that things go my way and I will come home with that coveted cast-iron skillet crown. 

So, when I wanted to bake up a batch of scones today, naturally, I thought that I would try to add a little cornmeal to the batter.  I've always liked the effect that cornmeal has on pancake batter.  It provides a different, slightly grainy texture and makes the outsides bake up nice and crisp, so I figured that it would work well with scones too.  Scones are always nicely enhanced with a little citrus zest, and the tart sour cherries (a bargain at Trader Joe's) add little chewy nuggets of flavor to contrast with the buttery sweetness of the scones.  They turn out crunchy on the outside and flaky on the inside--I think those corn gods would approve.  Here are a few tips for making these light lemon-scented pastries:

• If you don't have pure maple syrup on hand, then substitute honey.  Do NOT use the imitation syrup!  If you don't have coarse sugar, then use regular sugar.  Coarse sugar just holds its shape better during the baking process and presents better.
• The scone dough can be prepared and then refrigerated, wrapped in plastic, for up to two days.  It can also be pre-made and frozen, wrapped in plastic, for up to one week.  Bring to room temperature prior to serving.
• Instead of dried cherries, try this recipe with dried cranberries or blueberries.  Use orange zest in place of the lemon or use a combination of the two zests.
• In order to bake flaky and light scones, it is important to not overmix the dough.  You should be able to see the little pieces of butter in the dough when you cut out the scones.  These create "pockets" and layers of dough during the baking process.
• Instead of making round scones, you can cut the dough into wedges. 

Cherry-Lemon Cornmeal Scones

Makes about 12 small or 7 large scones

Ingredients:

1 cup dried sour cherries

1 1/2 cups flour

1/2 cup yellow cornmeal

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

Zest of two lemons

6 tablespoons chilled butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1/2 cup whole milk

1/4 cup pure maple syrup

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 egg mixed with 1 tablespoon water

Coarse sugar

Preheat the oven to 350F degrees.  Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.  In a heatproof measuring cup, cover the cherries with hot water and let soak for 10 minutes; drain and dry.

In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and lemon zest to combine.  Sprinkle the pieces of butter over the mixture and pulse until the butter is the size of small peas. 

Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and stir in the cherries.  Add the milk, maple syrup, and vanilla, and stir with a spatula until just combined.  Do not overmix.

Turn the mixture out onto a lightly floured work surface and, with floured hands, pat into a 1/2-inch thick round.  Using a biscuit cutter, cut out rounds and place them on the prepared baking sheets, spaced 2 inches apart.  Gather the scraps and continue to cut out rounds until all of the dough had been used.

Brush the tops of the rounds with the egg wash and sprinkle with coarse sugar.  Bake for 25-30 minutes, until golden brown.  Transfer the scones to a rack to cool slightly.  Serve warm or at room temperature. 

Mocha-Chip Pecan Muffins

Almost every restaurant dessert menu boasts a chocolate-themed dessert, with a title that usually contains the words "triple", "decadent", or "mudslide".  To many, there is no such thing as too much chocolate.  To me, that is not the case.  Don't get me wrong.  I mean, I do like my chocolate, just in smaller or more subtle formats than "Decadent Triple Chocolate Mudslide Cake with Fudgy Fudge Sauce and Chocolate Shavings".  In my opinion, a small piece of a high-quality 78% bittersweet chocolate or a rich chocolate sorbet is so much better, and you don't feel ill from extreme amounts of consumed sugar afterward.

One way to incorporate chocolate flavor into your baking without too much sweetness is by using a good quality dark cocoa powder in place of melted chocolate.  Another ingredient that I have found to complement the chocolate flavor and to give it more depth is espresso powder.  By studding the batter of what you are making with miniature chocolate chips, you still get that occasional nugget of solid chocolate flavor without overdoing it.  These Mocha-Chip Pecan Muffins incorporate all three of the above techniques to create a not-too-sweet treat that satisfies any mid-day chocolate craving--no Fudgy Fudge sauce needed.  Here are just a few tips for making these mocha-flavored muffins:

• Use either full-fat or low-fat plain yogurt for this recipe.  Using non-fat yogurt will result in a drier muffin.
• Substitute almonds, walnuts, or hazelnuts for the pecans.
• If you like a sprinkle of cinnamon on your morning mocha, then add 1/2 teaspoon of ground cinnamon to the flour mixture.
• If your regular grocery store doesn't carry it, then espresso powder can usually be found in specialty foods stores or on-line at the King Arthur Flour website.

Mocha-Chip Pecan Muffins

Makes 12 large muffins

Ingredients:

2 cups flour

3/4 cup whole wheat flour

1 cup packed brown sugar

1/3 cup cocoa powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup safflower, sunflower, or canola oil

4 tablespoons butter, melted

3 eggs

1 cup yogurt

1 teaspoon espresso powder dissolved in 1/2 cup warm water

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup pecans, chopped

1 cup miniature chocolate chips

Preheat the oven to 375F degrees.  Line a 12-cup muffin tin with liners or spray with nonstick baking spray.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, whole wheat flour, brown sugar, cocoa, baking soda, baking powder, and salt.

In another large bowl, whisk together the oil, butter, eggs, yogurt, espresso mixture, and vanilla.  Fold the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients.  Fold in the pecans and the chocolate chips.

Spoon the batter evenly into the prepared muffin cups.  The cups will be very full.  Bake the muffins for 25 minutes or until a tester inserted into the center of one muffin emerges clean.  Cool completely in the pan.

Parchment-Baked Halibut with Mediterranean Couscous

Several years ago, likely due to the recommendation of either Martha or Ina (as in Stewart or Garten), I invested in my first roll of parchment paper to use for cooking and baking.  I imagine that I had reached my breaking point with cookies that were overly dark on the bottoms or with cake layers sticking to their pans, regardless of how generously I had buttered and floured.  The silicone baking mats , which many bakers sang the praises of, never really appealed to me either, as I found them awkward to work with and clean.  After seeing the use of parchment mentioned multiple times in the recipes of those who clearly knew their way around a kitchen, I figured that there must be something to this cooking spray substitute.  I haven't looked back ever since......

There are several reasons why I prefer parchment paper to other options, despite the fact that it is a bit more expensive.  It consistently prevents sticking without the use of butter or grease, so it provides a much cleaner finish to baked goods.  You can use it to line the bottoms of baking pans by tracing them on the paper and then cutting it down to size.  I also find that recipes bake more evenly on parchment-lined sheets.  Best of all, because it is disposable, clean-up is a piece of cake (no pun intended).  You simply remove the liner and throw it away.

A few months ago, when I was participating in a cooking competition, one of my creative fellow competitors, Margee Berry, used parchment for a cooking method that I had read about, but had never attempted.  This method, in cooking circles, is called en papillote, and it means to seal food in a pouch made of parchment and bake.  The food essentially steams in the oven in its own juices and seasonings, so it is an extremely healthy way of cooking.  It also provides that "Wow" factor as each person has his or her own puffed and slightly brown packet to open, like a gift from the cook!  Oh, and did I mention easy clean-up??  Here are some tips for making my version of parchment-packed fish (and a healthy side of whole grains):

• This recipe can be prepared using almost any sort of fish.  Mahi-mahi, seabass, snapper, tilapia, and black cod, and salmon would all work nicely.  If you are not a fish lover, then use boneless skinless chicken breasts which aren't too thick.  Adjust the cooking time depending on the thickness of the fish/chicken.
• I suggest using whole wheat couscous in the list of ingredients, as it contains more nutritional value than standard couscous, but using plain couscous works just as well.  They are both good for you!
• If you don't have parchment paper on hand, then you can achieve a similar effect by baking the fish in a tightly sealed foil packet.
• If you like some additional spice in your food, then add some crushed red pepper to the couscous mixture and add a generous amount of cracked black pepper to the fish.

Parchment-Baked Halibut with Mediterranean Couscous

Serves 4

Ingredients:

3/4 cup uncooked whole wheat couscous

1 cup water

1 cup halved grape tomatoes

1/3 cup chopped pitted kalamata olives

3 tablespoons minced red onion

2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon dried oregano

2 teaspoons minced garlic

3 tablespoons olive oil, divided

Salt and pepper to taste

4 (6-8 ounce) halibut fillets

12 thin lemon slices

Preheat the oven to 425F degrees.

Bring 1 cup of water to a boil in a medium saucepan and then gradually stir in the couscous.  Remove the saucepan from the heat, cover, and let stand for 5 minutes.  Fluff the couscous with a fork.  Transfer the couscous to a large bowl and stir in the tomatoes, olives, red onion, parsley, lemon juice, oregano, and garlic.  Add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and season with salt and pepper.  Set aside.

Cut 4 (15X24-inch) pieces of parchment paper and fold them in half crosswise.  Draw a large half heart on each piece, with the fold of the paper being the center of the heart.  Cut out the heart and open.

Sprinkle both sides of the fish fillets with salt and pepper.  Place 1 fillet near the fold of each piece of parchment.  Top each fillet with 3 lemon slices and drizzle with 1/2 tablespoon olive oil.  Starting at the top of each heart, fold the edges of the parchment, sealing the edges with narrow folds.  Twist up the end tightly to secure.  Place the packets on a baking sheet and bake for 15-18 minutes, until the paper is browned and puffed. 

Place the packets on plates, cut open, and serve with the couscous.

Banana and Brown Butter Tart

The first time that I smelled the enticing aroma of brown butter, I thought that I had died and gone to heaven.  My first thought was, "If I could bottle and sell this stuff, I could make a fortune!"  Well, Eau de Brown Butter never came about, but I do cook and bake with this fragrant ingredient every chance that I get.

I had seen the term brown butter on restaurant menus before, usually as part of a rustic pasta dish, married with fresh sage and hazelnuts (o.k., now I'm getting hungry).  But it wasn't until I was watching the great Julia Child do what she did best on Cooking Live!, during the old days of Food Network, that I actually learned how to master this classic French technique. 

Brown butter, also called beurre noisette, is made by cooking butter for a long enough time so that the milk particles turn brown and the water cooks out.  The resulting flavor is much nuttier and more complex than regular melted butter.  Originally, brown butter was served over fish, but after the delicious word got out, chefs use it for everything from drizzling over brussels sprouts to flavoring cookies.  For baked goods, such as this tart, brown butter adds a taste similar to butterscotch, and it blends beautifully with the cinnamon, vanilla, and banana flavors. Here are some tips for this sweet-tooth-satisfying tart:

• If you don't have dried beans or pie weights on hand, then use rice to fill the tart for the blind baking.
• The crust dough can be refrigerated for up to three days.
• If the filling cools for too long, it may become a bit tough.  Add a splash of whole milk, half and half, or cream to loosen it up a bit for pouring into the tart shell.
• Because vanilla beans are so expensive, I usually don't buy them.  Instead, I buy jars of vanilla bean paste, available at Trader Joe's for a much more reasonable price.  Use one teaspoon of the paste as a substitute for one vanilla bean.  Two teaspoons of vanilla extract can also be substituted.
• If you don't have a cinnamon stick, add 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon to the melted butter.
• For a great dinner party dessert, make this recipe into individual mini tarts, so that each guest will have their own personal sweet treat.

Brown Butter Banana Tart

Serves 8-10

Ingredients:

Crust

8 tablespoons butter, room temperature

1/3 cup sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 egg yolks

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 1/4 cups flour

Filling

6 egg yolks

3/4 cup sugar

12 tablespoons butter

1 vanilla bean, split

1 cinnamon stick

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup flour

2 medium bananas, peeled and sliced into 1/4-inch rounds

Confectioner's sugar and lightly sweetened whipped cream for serving

Prepare the crust:  In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the butter, sugar, and salt to blend.  Beat in the egg yolks and vanilla.  Add the flour and mix until combined.  Gather the dough into a ball and flatten into a disk.  Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for 2 hours or overnight.

Press the crust dough into the bottom and up the sides of a 9-inch round or square tart pan with a removable bottom.  Freeze 20 minutes.

Prepare the filling:  Whisk the egg yolks and sugar in a medium bowl until light and fluffy.  Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat.  Add the seeds from the vanilla bean and then add the bean.  Add the cinnamon stick and the salt.  Cook over medium heat until the butter browns and becomes fragrant, 6-8 minutes.  Discard the cinnamon stick and vanilla bean pod.  Gradually whisk the browned butter into the yolk mixture.  Whisk in the flour and set aside to cool.

Bake the crust: Preheat the oven to 325F degrees.  Line the crust with foil or parchment paper.  Fill with pie weights or dried beans.  Bake for 10 minutes, remove the foil and beans, and then return to the oven and bake until the crust is golden, 20-25 minutes.  Transfer to a rack to cool slightly.

Assemble and bake the tart: Arrange the banana slices on the crust.  Spoon the filling evenly over the banana slices.  Bake the tart until golden brown and the filling is set, 30-35 minutes.  Cool for 30 minutes and then remove the tart from the pan.

Dust the tart with powdered sugar, cut into squares or wedges, and serve warm or at room temperature.

Flank Steak Braciole

During its six season run on HBO, I was a huge fan of  "The Sopranos", tuning in every Sunday night to watch mafioso Tony try to balance the conflicting requirements of being the head of both a criminal organization and of his unconventional family. Unpredictable, engrossing story lines, well-rounded characters, and believable dialogue were some of the things that made this multi-Emmy winning show so popular.  There were two other more subtle, but important aspects that served as  strong supporting characters for the show: the music and the food.  Try listening to Journey's "Don't Stop Believin" without thinking of that final nail-biting and controversial diner scene.  And every time that I see braciole on a restaurant menu, I now not only pronounce it like I am a North Jersey Italian grandmother, but I am automatically transported to Sunday dinners at the Soprano house.

I don't think that there were many episodes in which either Carmella Soprano or Artie Buco didn't mention that they had some "leftover braciole in the fridge."  The first time that I heard this, I had no idea what this dish that they were referringto was, let alone how to go about preparing it.  So naturally, being the curious cook that I am, I had to find a recipe for braciole so that I could give it a try (Of course, I had to figure out how to spell the darn thing first). 

In Italian-American cooking, braciole (pronounced "bra-zhul" if you want to sound authentic) is composed of thinly sliced meat that has been rolled around a filling, which can include cheeses, herbs, vegetables, Italian meats, nuts, sausages, dried fruits, and breadcrumbs.  In other words, the sky's the limit. The roll is then braised for several hours in a tomato sauce or "Sunday gravy", until it is cooked through and tender.  Recipes for braciole are open to variation, with many families passing them down over several generations.  As you can imagine, it is not the world's best diet dish, but I substituted turkey sausage and omitted the cheese to help lighten the caloric blow.  Fortunately, you don't need a huge portion, as each bite of this hearty meal contains enough flavor to even satisfy a big tough guy like Tony.  Here are some tips for this hearty beef braciole:

• Cut the prep time for this recipe by asking your butcher to butterfly the steak for you in  advance.  This can be a challenge to do on your own at home.
• The braciole, filled with all of the ingredients, rolled, and tied with string, can be prepared one day in advance.  Cover and refrigerate.
• Serve the braciole over soft polenta. mashed potatoes, or cous cous to soak up all of the sauce.
• Pancetta is carried by most grocery store deli counters, but if you can't find it, then substitute thinly sliced prosciutto, ham, or even salami. 
• This recipe prepares quite a bit, but it reheats beautifully, and the flavors really develop with the extra time, so save it for leftovers.
• Keep an eye on the pine nuts while they are toasting.  They burn very easily.

Flank Steak Braciole

Serves 6 to 8

Ingredients:

1 flank steak, about 1 1/2 pounds, butterflied

4 tablespoons olive oil, divided

1/4 cup chopped flat leaf parsley

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage

3 ounces thinly sliced pancetta

1/4 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted

1/4 cup raisins

3/4 pound Italian turkey sausage (3-4 links)

3 cups beef broth

1 (750-ml) bottle dry red wine

1 (26-ounce) bottle marinara sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

Salt and pepper to taste

Open the flank steak on a work surface and sprinkle with salt and pepper.  Rub with 1 tablespoon olive oil, followed by the parsley, oregano, thyme, and sage.  Arrange the pancetta slices atop the herbs.  Sprinkle the pine nut and raisins over the pancetta.  Arrange the sausages crosswise, about 2 inches from 1 short end of the steak.  Beginning at the short end near the sausages, roll up the steak into a log.  Tie string around the steak at 2-inch intervals to secure.

Preheat the oven to 325F degrees.  Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil in a wide oven-proof pot.  Add the steak and cook until browned all over, about 7 minutes.  Add the beef broth and wine, and then the marinara sauce; bring the mixture to a boil.  Cover and transfer to the oven.  Roast until the sausages are cooked through and the steak is tender, about 1 hour 45 minutes.  Transfer the braciole to a work surface and tent with foil to keep warm.

Add the sugar to the sauce and then boil the sauce in the pot until reduce to about 4 cups, 15-20 minutes.  Slice the braciole into 1-inch slices.  Pour the sauce into a large deep platter.  Arrange the braciole slices over the sauce on the platter and serve.